"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
12/01/2016 at 12:28 • Filed to: rovers, rorvors
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"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
12/01/2016 at 12:28 • Filed to: rovers, rorvors | 9
| 9 |
Land Rover Series II/IIA brakes are backwards. Only sort of !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! of backwards. Usually. By this I mean that the brake (and clutch) pedals are pushed forward, and the rods in their master cylinders are pushed toward the firewall. Like so:
(Defender TDI clutch - setup is the same as Series apart from return spring)
Originally, they used the same little box and pedal for the clutch and brake, but then decided that the brakes needed softer pedal feel (or something) and moved the pivot point for the brakes only. Which means that the two pedals sweep differently. I’ll get back to this.
As you can imagine, a single brake line system has the room to be installed this way, but a double kind of doesn’t. Forget having a booster. When those two things started to sound vaguely important and penetrate the mental haze of brew in Solihull, Rover decided to solve this problem by completely changing everything. Like y’do.
The tower is now taller than ever, hinges at the top (pushing the cylinder forward) and now fits a very bulky master and a very bulky booster. This is made to fit by “ha ha, fuck you”. By which I mean the fender tops got carved out on Series III models to even make this possible.
There is one additional complication, and that is that the pedal sweep (hinging at the top) is even more differenter than it was when the SIIA upgrade happened, and now requires a much larger cutout hole in the firewall, and will also no longer work with the original return spring.
All this is useful info for someone swapping a Mercedes diesel into a Series II. Specifically, “this car, while now not much heavier, is faster. Also, single line brakes suck ass. Also also, there’s a vacuum pump right there. Come on, man. ”
After reading all this, if you were spergy enough to do so, you might assume that the natural way to go would be to get a Series III fender top, cut out the hole in the firewall, and install normal SIII parts for this application...
First of all, where am I going to get a SIII fender top at this time of night? All joking aside, that’s something to buy (from a source I have) and/or make by cutting JIANT HOELZ in the existing fender and weakening it. The SIII style fender cutout also looks ugly, and is visible with the hood closed. Uh, no.
Second, there isn’t really any financial advantage to going with the standard parts, and the standard parts aren’t even that good. By the time the new pedal and tower and the rest are counted, with the fab time on the firewall and the rest, I think there are more productive things to do.
Which brings me to: BACKWARDSNESS. BACKWARDSNESS NOW, BACKWARDSNESS FOREVER.
You see, there *is* room for a booster without cutting the fender, if I just change the geometry of the setup. Oddly, not changing the geometry of the setup in *way* as much as the new and improved Proper Landy way of doing it.
In this highly technical and extremely precise drawing, you can see that if I hack up an existing tower, it will be possible to set up a “dogleg” pedal lever that will permit the master cylinder *and* booster to fit without cutting up the fender. I’ve made the measurements, verified sweep with some carefully bent wire mockups, and it works. Of course, this is a small booster (7" single) and the pedal lever ratio will change, but only to about what you get with a traditional Landy vacuum servo setup. Setup will probably be a Speedway/Summit unit like below:
Strong unit, no tookey plastic reservoirs, no fender or firewall butchery, line hookups in the same place as original, and while pedal height adjustment will require removing the fender, as a matter of practicality it already does with the stock brakes. Plus which, Rover power brakes require even more.
I’ll post pics when I’m done.
TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
12/01/2016 at 12:32 |
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I’ll be very interested to see how this works out.
Smallbear wants a modern Syclone, local Maple Leafs spammer
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
12/01/2016 at 12:38 |
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+1 for spergy
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
12/01/2016 at 12:40 |
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If you would like me to send you detailed drawings to duplicate at leisure, I can totally do that. Depending some on whether it works *really* well, or just sort of well.
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TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
12/01/2016 at 12:41 |
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I would appreciate that very much, thank you.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
12/01/2016 at 12:44 |
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Hacked up fenders and poo-grade Original Part based “upgrades” are caused by too few people willing to do their own engiNERRing. Emphasis on NERR, pronounced nasally.
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TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
12/01/2016 at 12:47 |
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I always referred to it as “bush mechanics” but that works too. That’s how my pa converted Salisbury axles to disks using Ford Cortina pick up calipers.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
12/01/2016 at 12:49 |
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It’s someone else’s hard-won engiNERRing that is the basis of the OM617 diesel swap in the first place. Modified oil pan, flywheel that uses the original ring gear, Toyota starter, a machined aluminum ring, an SIII radiator, and a bunch of stray parts like a thermostat housing mod. Can’t knock it.
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TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
12/01/2016 at 12:57 |
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I think a lot of people shy away from the stuff due to more hassle getting spare parts when you go full frankenstien. I’m not to worried though as I don’t plan on selling my IIa.
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RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts.
12/01/2016 at 13:04 |
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I can’t identify with that at all.
Oddly enough, my Rover came pre-frankensteined on several points. One, it had had an engine swap from a II or early IIA (early style water pump), and for two more it had a very large horn rigged from some unknown donor and a Rochester B carb. Kept both.
The target for the OM 617 has been monkeyed with as well, as its dash is some kind of psychosis including a tach. It’s almost like a dealer went insane and decided to redo the dash with gauges from an MGB or something. It’s also getting further frankensteining in the shape of early Rangie diffs to boost the final drive ratio and its frame was made out of new parts, most of an existing 109 Station Wagon front end and rear bucket brackets, and the rear frame from a 109 pickup.